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Mar. 26th, 2008 @ 11:05 am ugh
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There is simply no dignified way to provide a stool sample. None at all.
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ant
Mar. 22nd, 2008 @ 04:38 pm the gift of a handout
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"Are you done with that?"

Y leaned over and pointed at my pile of uneaten french fries, ignoring the pile of ends that I had discarded (I eat french fries like they are shrimp). I couldn't help but notice that she still had a bunch of french fries on her plate, in fact more than half of her original portion was still there, still waiting to make the ultimate sacrifice, the leap down her throat. Guardedly I told her that I thought I was done with them so she quickly scooped them up and put them on her plate.

Looking more carefully I noticed that while she had appeared to finish eating she still had a piece of chicken left. "OK, what gives? Why do you want my fries?". She looked me in the eye, and gesturing to the street outside the KFC, she explained that they were for the poor kids we passed when we walked in. I couldn't help but notice a twinge of "duh" to her statement, like this is something I shouldn't have even asked about.

This was a generous act. It was a good act. A decision of such warmth and selflessness that I should have applauded her right there before walking up to the counter to buy more food, for the kids outside. But I didn't. I found the whole exercise incredulous, wondering why in the world she would want to do something like that. I had spent the past few months purposely ignoring the homeless, the hungry, the sick so that eventually they were as much a part of the cityscape as buildings or churches. I had gone out of my way, to avoid getting ripped off or encouraging a life of begging, to be a bad Christian, a bad human.

Of course there was no reason for me to react this way. I was done with the food and it was destined for the garbage. But still it was MY food, I bought it with my own money and had every right to dispose of it the way I felt it should be. The garbage was just as good as my stomach. If they were hungry they should go out and get a job like..... blah blah. It is funny when theory doesn't mesh with reality.

I think my real discomfort stemmed from my own embarrassment rather than some ingrained sense of ownership. In my desire to be culturally sensitive I had gone out of my way to make excuses and became unable to draw a distinction between a cultural difference and abject poverty. By acknowledging their plight I was doing them a disservice because what if their hunger was a momentary problem and those rags they called clothes were a mere costume? How could I tell? My french fries, the droppings from my table, would be an affront to their dignity. Their situation was temporary and how dare I assume otherwise. How would I respond, save face, when they rejected this offer?

By the time we finally finished our discussion and left the KFC with the bag of food the street kids had dispersed. We looked around the parking lot but only found middle class shoppers returning to their cars, their bags of newly purchased clothing or canned food held tight in each hand. I quietly breathed a sigh of relief but Y looked a bit upset by not finding the kids. She took one last glance around and began to head towards the nearest garbage can.

"Wait"

I grabbed her hand before she could dispose of the food and told her of a homeless man I had spotted a few times, over the past few days, in the same spot. Judging by the belongs he had spread out in the shadows I figured he would still be there. It was on our way home. Perhaps he would want this. I didn't explain that both times he looked drunk and possibly belligerent. We left the parking lot and with leftovers in hand went in search of the homeless man.

Much to my dismay he was there when we arrived at his spot. I began to make excuses. "Look, he is nesting next to a large BBQ restaurant, surely they feed him" or "See, he is sleeping, surely we can't disturb him." Y listened to my pleas and finally decided that we would be better off just leaving the dish next to the sleeping man and avoiding a disturbance. I agreed and stood back to watch as she went up and made the drop. Except she didn't. She made me do it.

He was tucked in a corner, the shadow providing his shelter, and laying on a cardboard box. I could see that while he was wearing multiple layers most of them were riddled with holes. With the wind and the coming rain I couldn't help but be thankful that I would be spending that night in a house, drawing warmth from Y. I approached him tentatively, ready to leap backwards if he erupted into a flow of hostile obscenities. I had no way of explaining my presence other than to hold out the food and smile. With each step I took closer to him he never stirred, never made an effort to acknowledge me. I left the food about a foot away from him and returned to Y.

The next day he, and the food container, was gone. I will never know what happened to it, if he ate it or one of the many stray dogs got to it first. I will never know what his thoughts were upon waking, if he wondered about it, or where it came from. In the end I realize that doesn't matter. Years from now I will remember the gesture, my own rebellions against it, and how Y, in her good nature, spurred me on.
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ant
Mar. 21st, 2008 @ 11:22 am spot the insect!
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Whenever I went hiking with Y I was impressed by her uncanny ability to spot stick bugs. You know, the thin insects that look like sticks and hide themselves amongst tall grasses etc. She spotted the one in this picture quite casually as we were walking by at a brisk rate.

Can you spot it?
(this was outside of Otavalo, Ecuador)

Photobucket

answer )
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ant
Mar. 14th, 2008 @ 10:32 am hasta luego
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Bounding off the plane, into the welcoming embrace of America, I quickly discarded my Spanish, elementary though it was, leaving it at the foot of the flight attendant who said "Hasta Luego" before I left my plane. For the first time in months I find myself at a linguistic advantage. I can speak in full sentences, expressing thoughts as they are meant to be, without having to filter them through the few words I know, like a 4 year old who has lost his first picture dictionary.

But it's not that easy. I am finding it incredibly hard to speak to people, in the service industry, in English. Sitting in some Miami airport sports bar I go to ask for the bill and stop myself before I say "La Cuenta". I then have to take some time to recalculate my request, translating it back in my head. It barely takes a moment, and I doubt if the pause was visible, but for me it was a tremendous delay, a gulf that the flight home forgot to pass over.

Back home I am in a pizza joint pointing and grunting at what I want. All the while thinking to myself, what am I doing? This is repeated later at 7-11 as I express my shock at the prices, thinking that they are charging me a gringo tax, expecting the cashier to offer me some kind of discount. Again I use facial clues, as if my mouth had become locked and frozen, relying on non verbal communication, like I just crawled out of a cave.

This will all pass, I know. It will take a bit of time. I post it here as a humorous aside, as a reminder to me that things are not easily compartmentalized, that I can't quickly switch from THEN to NOW, like nothing happened.
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ant
Mar. 13th, 2008 @ 11:43 pm 36 dollars
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When you, as an American citizen, enter the US from abroad you need to declare the value of any items you are bringing back with you. Typically these are souvenirs and so long as they aren't worth more than 1000 dollars you have problem, you can pass duty free. Still, when I looked at my form the other day I thought carefully about the amount that I wrote down and so I mentally reviewed my backpack to consider all the souvenirs and mementos I was bringing back with me. And I came up with 36 dollars. 36 dollars worth of souvenirs for a 5+ month trip. I was afraid that the customs agent, thinking what a ridiculously small amount this is, wouldn't believe me but he barely glanced at the form or me.

My souvenirs:
9 CDs
6 DVDs
a belt (mine original one, which was about 8 yrs old, had to be retired)
a memory card to replace the one that was stolen
a 20oz bottle of coke (I am going to do a taste test between it and american Coke)

And that is it. Talk about being a light (and cheap) traveler!
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ant
Mar. 13th, 2008 @ 09:29 am the music of a trip
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While it is hard to avoid a good beat in South America, this song has come to represent my entire trip to me. It's rhythm and beats just perfectly encapsulate what it means to be bouncing along through the Andes on a bus.



(bomba chuchaqui)

On a deeper level I will always remember hearing this song performed live during carnival and dancing next to Y.
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ant
Mar. 13th, 2008 @ 08:36 am the first thing...
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...I did upon entering Miami International Airport...






the explanation )

ETA:
The bathroom in my house is pretty small so the garbage can sits right next to the toilet bowl. I just had to physically stop myself from dropping used TP into it. When I got up to flush I looked down in horror at the floating TP and felt very embarrassed... but then I realized where I was.
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ant
Mar. 13th, 2008 @ 12:30 am the end.
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What began as a 7 week trip but turned into a 5 1/2 month, live changing, adventure has come to an end.

I am home.

The past 162 days have been spent in 54* cities, towns and villages. I spent countless hours on buses, logging more miles than I can even contemplate, boarded 13 flights when I couldn't stand the buses anymore, took boats when possible and even took a few trains (even though some of them went nowhere) along the way.

My days in those places were filled with adventure, excitement, wonder and in some cases simple relaxation. My experiences along the way have given birth to such memories that years from now, whenever I am feeling nostalgic or have a rapt audience, will still manage to remind me of something new, of something forgotten, of some crazy happening on the road.

I have gained friends from around the world. I have found close friends in places where I least expected to. I have laughed with strangers and smiled and waved at children on the side of the road. I have seen how different cultures, different societies live their lives. I have been blessed.

And, finally, I have left a trail of stench deep enough that bloodhounds could follow me home.

Man, what a great time this has been!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I hope you have enjoyed reading about my adventures almost as much I have enjoyed living them!


PS, It's friggin cold in NY!!

*the final country count: Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador (incl galapagos), Colombia, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Belize and Honduras
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ant
Mar. 11th, 2008 @ 04:16 pm a perfect end
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I have been walking around San Salvador this afternoon with a stupid grin on my face because today has been just about perfect. As far as traveling days go today has been the tops, everything has gone right.

I awoke at 530 this morning and stumbled out of my hotel to the bus stop for La Entranda. Fortunately this was located about 2 store fronts down from my hotel. I was expecting an over crowded mini bus so was thrilled to see that there was a full size bus going.

Upon arriving in Entrada I told my driver where I wanted to go and he pointed in the direction. I wandered aimlessly until I came to the hotel he mentioned. Realizing that I was standing in a fork in the road, and not sure of the direction, I asked the woman in the hotel where to go. She told me and told me the name of the bus company.

Walking towards the newly found bus stop I was quickly approached by someone who, presumably, worked for a bus company. He asked where I was going and I showed him the piece of paper that I had written the name of the town which I couldnt pronounce. We started walking and he continued to ask where I was going and I finally said San Salvador. He turned me in the other direction and told me to wait as there was a direct bus coming in 15 minutes. Great, sure beats my plan of taking 5 different buses!

The direct bus came and it was a delux bus, good seats, modern interior, not too crowded and ample air conditioning, a bit too cold for my nipples but otherwise pleasant. When we came to the border the two country inspectors came on and checked out my documents. The border guard for EL Salvador was nice enough not to charge me an additional 10 dollars to get in. Then I was able to change my honduras money at a great rate.

We finally pulled into San Salvador at 1pm, about 3 or 4 hours earlier than I planned. From my last time in this city I knew of only one landmark, a bus terminal, and I had to get to it, somehow. I was dismayed when the bus sped whizzed by it. I started mentally calculating the cab fare to get back here as 5 minutes passed. But then, incredibly, the bus turned around and returned to the exact bus terminal I had to go to! It was perfect.

The terminal is located right next to the airport shuttle, which is right next to the hotel I am staying at. I was able to walk to all of it. Brilliant!!

I was pleased to discover that the hotel was still the 12 dollars that my 4 year old LP guide mentions but now that price includes a private bathroom! Which is great as I am pretty dirty. Flipping on the TV I was excited to see that they had all of my favorite channels including CNN so I can watch continuing coverage of Spitzer.


Wandering down to the city center, in search of a restaurant suggested in the LP (this area is terrible for food places) I found the sign but quickly realized that they were now serving discount clothing and not food. Luckily, right next door was a fast food chicken place which I always prefer so I jumped in there for a quick bite. While there I thought that I would have to find a supermarket to get some supplies for the evening ahead. I figured this would be a problem so I was elated when I walked out of the restaurant and noticed a great big supermarket right across the street! They even had my favorite flavor of Gatorade.

Returning to the hotel I stopped along the way to do a little bootleg shopping. I picked up 4 DVDs for 2 dollars: AMerican Gangster, Beowolf, Grindhouse and Sweeney Todd. I also grabbed 5 CDs of styles of music from down there that I have grown to love. Mainly cumbia and reggaeton, great driving music.

Tomorrow I need to walk about 30 feet to get my shuttle to the airport and head home.

A PERFECT DAY!! a PERFECT END!
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ant
Mar. 10th, 2008 @ 06:22 pm a little game...
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Shortly before I left, back in October, I weighed myself. My weight then was 162 but I havent had an opportunity to weigh myself since then. I am looking forward to seeing what my change has been over these past 5 months.

So, the game... guess my weight! Sure it is pure speculation as you really cant see me but I will list some pertinent facts. Just send a comment with your guess and the winner will get... well, they will get public acknowledgement on my journal. I am good with prizes, I know. I realize this would probably be easier with a poll but I dont have access to that option, so the roundabout weigh it is.

in favor of weight loss:
my near weekly, gut gripping, bowl painting bouts of diarhea
the frequent missed lunches or dinner, through laziness or being stuck on a bus
occasional intense hiking
the intense sweating I have undergone.
that nasty tapeworm*

in favor of weight gain:
My pot belly remains
I have been sucking down a lot of fast food lately
Most of the time I have been pretty inactive
I have recently developed quite a taste for beer.. mmm.. beer.


*not confirmed
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ant
Mar. 9th, 2008 @ 05:31 pm the long goodbye
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I was watching a few backpackers this afternoon tossing their bags on to a bus and I got a bit nostalgic because those days for me are just about over. I am going home in 3 days yet my mind is already there. Tomorrow is my last day to do anything as I will spend the 11th on a bus and the 12th on planes. I realized something funny though...

...I dont want it to end.

As draining as it is and as excited I am to get back to NY, i am going to miss this life. I am going to miss showing up in a new town every few days, nervous as hell but elated when i figure it out.

I could keep going, I have the means to extend this a year. But I dont know where I would go (india possibly, thanks Rob) and besides that is not really what I want. I have this massive upswelling of guilt about traveling so long, like I should be home figuring out what I want to do with my life and suffer in a crappy job like everyone else. It feels like this traveling has been escape from my life instead OF my life.

This could be laregly because of the whole job thing. I am not too thrilled to be heading home as the US enters a recession. Thankfully I have some breathing room. Good times.
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ant
Mar. 3rd, 2008 @ 06:05 pm concerns
Even though I know, at heart, that is just sabre rattling, I am a bit concerned, for friends in Ven, friends in Col and friends in northern Ecu, by all the trouble lately in Colombia. C, in pursuing members of FARC, raided a camp on the Ecuadorian side of the border. Once there they killed the number 2 guy of FARC. This has caused the president of Venezeula, a vocal supporter of FARC, to send troops to the border and to close the embassy in Bogota. Ecuador has recalled its ambassador from Colombia.

I realize that Chavez isnt going to start a war over this and that he is just looking for pblicity. But another part of me is reminded that he recently lost an election to be dictator for life and what better way there is to override the election by embarking on a war, declaring a constitutional crisis and changing the drapes in the presidential mansion?
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ant
Mar. 2nd, 2008 @ 04:09 pm zipping through Costa Rica
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My main reason for visiting Monteverde, the town I am in now, was to enjoy a tour of the forest canopy, suspended over it and whizzing by at 40mph!!! Today I fulfilled that goal, having visited Skytrek a company that provides 11 zip lines, the longest one being 1km in length.

It was a pretty fantastic experience, one that left me wearing a constant smile. Unfortunately I didnt really see much of the forest as I was going too fast to pay attention.

Afterwards I spent an hour wandering around their hiking trails which provided 6 suspension bridges for viewing animals, of which I saw very few.

Photobucket


two videos below. They were both shot by my guide and the first one is the trip on the line. The second one is of me on that same line, arriving at the end.

BONUS pic: Arenal volcano
Read more... )
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ant
Mar. 2nd, 2008 @ 04:03 pm the week ahead
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I have one more day in Costa Rica before heading up to El Salvador and beginning the ruins portion of my trip. I am really excited to see the Mayan pyramids but they will come at a cost: my energy. It is going to be a crazy week as far as itineraries go that will have me racing through 3 different countries trying to cram as much as I can into 8 days.

On Tuesday I have to be at the San Jose airport at 430am for my flight to El Salvador. With any luck by 10 am I will be on a 5 hour bus to Guatemala City and then transfer to an hr long bus to Antiqua. The next day I will, with luck, find myself hiking up to the rim of an active volcano and peering into a pool of red hot lava. You might have some concerns for my safety with this but dont worry, I am adequately trained in the preventative measures of "duck and cover".

After surviving the volcano it is a 9 hr night bus ride to Tikal, the first of Mayan ruins. Two days there exploring the region and then I head south stopping along the way before arriving in Copan (Honduras) for the impressive ruins there.

I hope my camera, which has 250 photos left, can handle it all!
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ant
Mar. 2nd, 2008 @ 03:47 pm fast food world
When I was still in NY, when this trip was just an idea in my head, a collection of fear and excitment, I decided that I would avoid fast food joints when traveling. I knew I would come across a few in Buenos Aires and possibly some of the other big cities I would be passing through.

So it was resolved.

Naturally you can understand my disappointment with myself when, a mere few hours after arriving, I found myself sitting down to lunch in McDonalds. What crumbled my resolve so quickly? What brought me to such an unhealthy place as MCd? Simply, it was known. And that counts for so much, more than you can imagine when you are standing in your own kitchen, because when you are hungry you dont have time to wander around, comparing menu choices to your phrasebook, you want something that you know will fill you up. And so that is how I ended up in McDonalds on my first day.

I didnt really have a chance to sample much more fast food after that until I arrived in Ecuador, a few months later. Ecuador is a land of many things, many landscapes, many peoples and many American restaurants. But by then my resolve was nothing more than a pile of broken resolutions at my feet that had been there so long only the archeologists could guess their original purpose. I devoured all the fast food I could. Mcdonalds, BK and, most frequently, KFC. Sure I might have felt a little bit of guilt but the novelty of food in new places had worn off.

But there is another reason why I like fastfood in foreign countries. The experience is simply better than you get in the states. Eating FF down here now is what I feel eating FF in the states 30, 40 years ago must have been like. The staff smiles, and since places are inevitably overstaffed you are surrounded by smiles. You rarely have to wait (except for when KFC runs of chicken) and your food is prepared with care. The sitting area is always immaculate as there is at least one person whose job it is just to clean, nothing more. When you finish eating that same person removes the tray and your garbage from the table. The times I have attempted to throw out my own garbage I was intercepted by them, thanked for the effort but denied my conclusion.
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ant
Mar. 1st, 2008 @ 12:59 pm so much beauty
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About two weeks into my trip I found myself down in Ushuaia hiking through a wonderful national park in search of beaver. For a portion of the hike, before I wanted to be alone and fled, I was talking to a guy from the states who had been traveling for about a year. He was longing to go home and cognizant of the fact that he had spent too long on the road.

Eventually we came to a particularly stunning bit of sceneary and we both exclaimed, in a unison that would have seemed planned, "WOW, so beautiful." But while my sentence ended there his had a but to qualify the statement. "...but, I have seen it before".

He wasnt talking about that particular place, that sight, which was new enough to us to have been culled into existence the night before without our knowledge, but beauty. He went on to explain that eventually the beautiful things all blend together and you grow tired of them. This is something I nodded to in agreement even though I still wasnt quite sure about it. I was new to beautiful things.

That particular place in Ushuaia he had seen before, in New Zealand, in Asia, in all the other places he has been. Because nature, for all of her wonder, is pretty damn repetitive, choosing to dip into her box of standard landscapes more often then she throws down a grand canyon or iguazu falls.

All of these months later I find myself agreeing with him more and more. I am seeing lots of beautiful things, every day in fact, but they are all so similar. There are only so many ways you can get excited about a landscape, a verdant green hill, or mountains gathering clouds to their peaks as if they were wayward sheep. Visiting new places every few days I have become dulled to the wonders of nature. Things that once caused me to grab my camera, even though I knew it would never come out, now are barely able to get more of a glance.

So now I am forced to search even harder for beauty, to seek it out in out of way places, or find it in places I least expected. It is harder this way, it is not for the lazy or the weary. Which unfortunately I have become more and more of each day.
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ant
Feb. 24th, 2008 @ 11:17 am the salt church
About two hours north of Bogota, in the town of Zipaquira, there is a large salt mine with enough salt to last hundreds of years. And in the mountain, that contains all the salt, there is a church, carved out of the rock and salt. I love churches and knew that I couldnt leave Colombia without checking this one out, arguably one of the most unique churches I have seen.

I was not disappointed. You can only visit the church with a tour that takes about an hour. There is a bit of a descent at first and the need to walk through a long tunnel. However once you emerge from this you find long winding passages that lead to the chapel. Along the way the stations of the cross are carved and are, at moments, quite beautiful.

The most interesting part, however, is the way the church is lit. Since it is underground the lighting is very important and most places were illuminated with a blue light which created quite a haunting effect, as you can see from my photos.

Oh, and if any of you photoshop wizards care to clean up the last photo I would appreciate it. This way I can fully proclaim myself as the heathen that I am. Mainly I am interested in being shifted over just a bit to the right to be centered.

Photobucket

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ant
Feb. 24th, 2008 @ 11:06 am a meeting!
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back in September, when I was planning my trip, I came across the journal of [info]lordeyetrob who was living in Bolivia. I quickly emailed him and he became a great help with my planning, suggesting things to see and places to visit. Unfortunately he told me that he would most likely be out of Bolivia by the time I got there so we wouldnt get a chance to meet.

Well, when I got there he was still in Bolivia and we were in La Paz at the same time with plans to meet. Unfortunately my stomach decided to spend a few days purging itself so that meeting never happened and we both went off on our separate adventures.

Since then we have followed each other up the continent and our paths have crisscrossed over the past few weeks but we never got a chance to meet. He is in Bogota now and last night, my last night in South America, we finally were able to meet up! It was a nice time. I got to meet him, his roommate and a gorgeaous Colombian girl who is fawning over the roommate (why, or how, he is rebuffing her is beyond me!). Cards were played, stories were told and drinks were had. All in all a good way to end my time here.

In a few hours I say goodbye to South America and head off for some new adventures in Central America. I have no idea what I want to do in Costa Rica, which is troubling as I will be there by dinner. LOL. good times. I am either going to head to the Nicaragua border and take a 4 hour boat ride, up a river that has freshwater sharks (!!!) to a 500 year old castle which is supposed to be almost as exciting as the river trip. This will take at least 3 days RT. Or I will head to the Carribean for a few days and snorkel, swim with dolphins, relax and try to avoid Bob Marley music as best as I can.
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ant
Feb. 22nd, 2008 @ 05:07 pm the police (not the band)
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Given my history of experiences with the military and police in Colombia I decided today that it would be good if I actually learned a bit more about the history of the organization so I visited the Police Museum, located here in Bogota. It was a brilliant time. I had my own personal tour guide, a young guy finishing up his required months of service, who spoke great english. This was all free. And since I had so many questions it took about 2 hours! Fantastic.

I learned a couple of interesting things:
All males are required to be in the military for at least 18 months.
The best sniper in the police force is a female.
They have special uniforms for female members who are pregnant.
In order to become a general, or other high ranking officials, members are requird to undergo 5 years of schooling that is very very expensive. Hence there arent a lot of people at their level.

The basement of the building is devoted to Pablo Escobar and I got to see the roof title that caught his head as he fell after being shot. The blood stains were still visible. They also had the jacket that he was wearing. It was impressive but not as impressive as the bloody uniform of Archduke Franz Ferdinand that I saw in Austria 11 years ago.

When I first entered the museum there were a bunch of new recruits for the military there and they were chanting really really loud. Good times.

There is also a huge room devoted to firearms. Apparently you are not allowed to take pictures in this room as some one did and it became a big ordeal involving an angry looking military man going through the persons camera.

Finally there was a room devoted to torture throughout the world. In one particularly brutal picture North Koreans were tightly wrapping a traitor in barbed wire as his hysterical wife and child were forced to watch.
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ant
Feb. 22nd, 2008 @ 10:45 am I know this much is true...
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Having now entered my final country in SA I can say, with the full authority of my eyes, that Bogota has more beautiful girls than any other country I have visited. Ever. This could be because I am staying in a university neighborhood and so there is a daily parade of young, ambitious, well made up, girls marching in front of me. But god, they all look so pretty...

----
I have had some problems, more than usual, communicating in Colombia. There are two reasons for this. The first is simply that they use different words here. I have seen three versions of the word for seat or for ticket, just for an example.

The second problem comes out of being nice. Colombians give me options when I buy food and this I am not prepared for. I know enough to tell what I want but if I get an unexpected question I lock up. This has happened at every meal so far. I miss the customer service standards I have come to appreciate in all the other countries where the rule seems to be you get what we want to give you. For the language impaired, this is just fine.

lol.
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ant
Feb. 21st, 2008 @ 07:32 pm Searching for Juan Valdez (or, from the seed to my cup )
Manizales is a nice enough city but it is a city. My only reason for stopping there was because it is in the heart of the coffee growing region of Colombia and would offer me a chance to visit a coffee plantation. One of the employees at my hostel recommended one to me that was an hour outside of town and would ofer a comprehensive tour, fully explaining the coffee making process. It sounded good to me and so yesterday morning I set out, along with one of my dormmates, to check it out.

What follows is a pictorial tour of how coffee goes from the ground to your cup. It is a fascinating process and I couldnt help but think of all the coffee that is drank on a daily basis and how many plants are needed to fulfill those cravings! The tour was in spanish and while I understood most of it I am pretty sure I missed some critical data.

Photobucket

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ant
Feb. 21st, 2008 @ 07:02 pm bogota
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Aftre a somewhat hellish 10hr bus ride, filled with some of the most violent movies currently available, I arrived in Bogota this afternoon, the last city I will visit in SA.

At the bus station I hopped into a cab and was surprised to discover that the driver, a fairly young guy, spoke English quite well. In all of my travels I have never had a taxi driver who could speak my language. In a stranger coincidence I soon discoverd that he used to live near where I grew up! He spent some time in Queens, which is about 5 minutes from where I used to live. We had a nice conversation on the way to the hostel and he pointed out some of the nice sights this city has as well as the not so nice shanty towns that fill up random streets. He pointed out the American Embassy which is the first time I have seen one of ours. It is quite big, about a whole block and I wasnt sure if I was supposed to salute or something. I didnt.

Tomorrow I am going to rush through a tour of the area museums and hopefully buy a train ticket for Saturday. On Sat I am heading out of the town to visit a, supposedly, beautiful church that is in a salt mine. I have heard good things about it so it should be nice. Even if it isnt the train uses a steam engine, which will be the first time I am on one.

Happily I found a dunkin donuts here as well! JOY!
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ant
Feb. 21st, 2008 @ 06:52 pm a day of lasts
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This morning, at 6:30, I boarded my last long haul bus in South America. It was actually a bit of a sad moment. I am going to miss the buses as they have been the backbone of my trip. I have spent countless hours on them and have experienced an amazingly diverse level of quality. They have been the source of many memories, some positive, some bad.

My best bus memory was in Bolivia, traveling from Uyuni to Potosi. About 6 hours into the trip the bus stopped for a bathroom break, except there werent any buses. So everyone got off the bus and found a spot on the road. It was brilliant. Women squatted, men stood and soon a river of urine was flowing down the road, carving new canyons into the dirt. It was one of the greatest bonding experiences I have ever had.

My worst memory comes from a bus ride from Ibarra to Otavalo when the driver ran over a dogs leg. There are lots of strays down here and, like dogs everywhere, they like to chase cars. Those with delusions of grandeur tend to gravitate towards the buses. I will never forget the sound the dog made, the wailing that erupted as the bus came to stop on its leg. I can still see the horrified looks on the faces of the pedestrians who observed it all at the ground level. And, worst of all, I can still see the dog limping away, hobbling on three legs, dragging the useless one behind it. One minute it was running and playing and the next its life, probably a short one, changed entirely. Just from a bad decision.

Aside from the bus ride today was also the last time I will pull into a city for the first time in SA. It marks the last time I will check into a hostel in SA. It is all coming to an end and that feels very, very weird.

The last moments will continue to grow over the next few weeks, building a monument to my trip and the adventures I once enjoyed.
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ant
Feb. 20th, 2008 @ 05:30 pm her eyes
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I know that look, those mannerisms. Her eyes held all the impending loss that her body refused to yet acknowledge. So there were kisses at every opportunity, hands clasped as they walked ahead and when they stopped she would lean into him for support, as if to highlight the fact that she would soon be falling.

I knew their situation before they told me about it. I knew by looking because they are a portrait of me, reenacting experiences I had just a mere three days ago. He is from Slovenia and she is from Colombia. Tonight is his last night in the country. I dont envy what they are going through.

It is always humbling to learn that you are not unique, that your feelings and adventures are shared around the globe, by people that who know nothing of you.
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ant
Feb. 19th, 2008 @ 02:51 pm look at my britches!
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I have been feeling a bit cocky lately when I think about my trip. No longer am I the guy who in Argentina, when asked how long I have been traveling responded, meekly, with "a week". No, I am no longer that guy, as the weeks and the months have passed I have gained more and more backpacker cred, experience and bragging rights that can only come with putting in the time, waking up each morning and being a backpacker. It is a hard life.

Yesterday I was particularly being propelled by my huge head and so when asked, by the guy who was in my dorm, how long I have been traveling I tried my best to be modest when I said, "oh about 5 months". In my head I was thinking, now top that bitch. Of course I decided to be polite and ask him the question as well, preparing a response for "2 weeks" that was equally polite.

He said that he was just finishing up his 14th month in South America. And he did it all by bike. suddenly my 5 months didnt look so big, so great. Suddenly I realized that in the land of long haul travellers I am a baby.

There tend to be two types of travelers that I have met, those that have been going for months with no plans on stopping and those who are here for a few weeks on vacation. Americans invariably occupy the latter. I occupy a middle ground, so maybe there are three.

I am fascinated by the true long haulers. I dont know how they can do it. I dont know how they can go so long without having a constant bed, a place to unpack, the knowledge that they dont need to worry about a bus schedule etc. I think a lot of them soak up the time by settling in a place for a few months and then moving on. But I wonder, are they travelers then or simply itinerant humans, unable to find comfort in a place for longer than a few months? Are they just like everyone else, looking for a place to fit in, to call home?
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ant
Feb. 19th, 2008 @ 09:54 am where I am at.
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After a three week absence I have returned to Colombia and it is even more beautiful than I remember. I am spending the remaining days of this week (and my time in SA) in two cities, Manizales and Bogota. Last night I arrived in M which is in the heart of the coffee region of Colombia. For some reason I got it in my head that it was 3 hours away from Cali but in fact it trned out to be 6 hours. Had I known that I would have planned it a bit better. I arrived after dark and my taxi driver had no idea where the hostel I am at was. He had to stop 4 times and ask for directions. Which is fine and good except for the fact that the meter was running.

Today I will just wander the city a bit, checking out some parks and the historic center. Tomorrow I am excited to be visiting a working coffee plantation where for a mere 7 dollars I will get a 5 hour tour and learn about, first hand, the process of making coffee. I also hear there are free samples involved. sweet. If I run into Juan Valdez I will send him your regards.
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ant