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May. 1st, 2007 @ 08:32 pm Be the frog (or, how to cross the street in Cairo)
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The trick to successfully playing the old game Frogger is to time your start carefully and then KEEP going! If you have to stop in the middle of the road to wait for a truck to pass you you are going to get hit by a motorcycle. Once you find yourself stopping in the middle of the road you are overthinking it and will rarely make it to the other side. That was some of the best advice I received about crossing the street in Cairo. The guidebooks had likened that endeavor to Frogger and I am sad to say they were correct. However, I did discover some other tricks to make it successfully across the street.They were all based on the theory of NOT stopping once you get going.

If you have never been to Cairo (or a similarly developed city) you might be a bit confused. If your only comparision is a country that actually follows the rules of the road you will have no idea what I am talking about and will find yourself, on your first day, cowering at a street corner waiting for the mass of traffic to stop or a nonexistant traffic light to turn red. The traffic in Cairo is madness. Traffic rules are, at best, considered guidelines and are even then rarely followed. Most of the streets don't have elevated walk ways and are often 4+ lanes of disorderly traffic. Only the foolhardy would attempt to cross without a solid plan.

The easiest way is to find bodyguards. No I don't mean go out and hire some people to perform this task. All this means is to locate a "local" about to cross the street and literally become their new body part. Don't ask permission -- just do it. This way you are able to take advantage of their, presumably, years of experience crossing the streets. The best way to do this is to walk on their side (using them as a shield). If you attempt to walk behind them you risk mis-timing the whole thing and getting side swipped by cars that won't stop. Whatever you do DO NOT HESITATE!

Not all bodyguards are made equal. You are best advised to avoid the single young male as they are probably prone to more risky behavior and will dash across the street. That dashing business, if you are not prepared for it, could leave you stranded in the middle of the road sans bodyguard. That could be deadly. You should also avoid the infirm.

I found that some of the best bodyguards were old people. They walk slow enough so it is easier for you to follow and they aren't going to take major risks. An added bonus is that they have a lifetime of experience crossing the street and will literally stare the cars down. Elderly women are the one type of people I noticed that cars will actually slow down for. If you can find one with a grandchild in tow -- even better!

Even the old can be trumped in terms of proper bodyguards. Your best bet is to attach yourself to a group of people crossing. This is easier said then done as it is sometimes hard to find a group. Since traffic lights are rarely used there is no buildup at a corner like you would find in NYC. If you do find them, rejoice, you have have discovered a moveable goldmine! Even if the group times the cross wrong you should be fine, if properly positioned, as you can use them all as buffers.

There is also etiquite involved in this. The locals aren't stupid. They realize that some gringo is following them, really close and understand that you are using them. When you get to the other side, safely, you might find it advisable to give a nod and smile. If you are feeling comfortable with your basic arabic skills you might want to utter a "shokran" to them. If you are feeling a touch of foreigner arrogance say "thank you". There is, however, no need to offer a tip/baksheesh.

There is also a warning attached to all of this. The local touts/scam artists are aware of the Western fear of crossing the street and use this against you. At the very least it becomes an excuse for a conversation. At its most deadly it becomes a chance to keep you at a corner. They know you won't dare cross the street without first giving it proper concentration -- this is not possible if they are constantly haranguing you!

These are the techniques I developed after being hit by a car on my first day in Cairo. Initially I was a bit arrogant, having earned my jaywalking stripes on the mean streets of NYC, and didn't see the need for a bodyguard. Don't make my mistake. Find a bodyguard for your first few days. Once you get used to the crazy traffic you will be fine alone. But please.. don't become a statistic.

The street where I was hit by a car )
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ant
Apr. 29th, 2007 @ 03:54 pm My last two rolls...
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This morning I got the last few rolls of film from my trip to Egypt developed. One roll had Alexandria and the other held photos of Madrid. Most of the photos were crap, pale markers of vivid memories. I realized as I picked up the developed rolls that I was wearing the EXACT same outfit as I was in all of my photos. oops...

two photos of me at Alexandria )
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ant
Feb. 25th, 2007 @ 03:59 pm the terrors of travel
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I didn't have to look at the clock to know it was late. Later than I should have been up. Late enough to wreak havoc on the carefully planned day that was now rapidly approaching. I looked anyway. Three AM and there I was, lying in bed, unable to sleep while my mind beat itself up for being so foolish. As sounds from the street below filtered in through a poorly designed window (echoes of the night winding down or the day stirring up?) I found myself tormented by questions: "what was I thinking?" "what am I doing here" and finally a statement, said with shaken confidence, "I am going to die."

Last week when I was talking to [info]oh_snap she mentioned her admiration for my ability to travel by myself as she professed that she could never do that (coming from someone who had just moved to NYC alone I had my doubts). I smiled and I nodded and I begged off the implicit question with a wave of the hand and a whispered "it's nothing...". I have heard similar statements from other people over the years and what none of them realize, and what I hate to admit to myself, is that I am absolutely terrified of travel.

The hours spent in my house before I departed for the airport I was unable to eat. The nervousness had overwhelmed me and my stomach attempted to remind me that I was being quite foolish. A stomach is, sometimes, an easy thing to ignore so packing continued and I made my way to the airport. For awhile I was OK. There was nothing strange here, nothing new. JFK looks like any other airport built in an area deprived of space and based off of these common features I drew some comfort. I settled into a chair, just the same as any airport chair all over the world, and read my book. I even ventured into a nearby McDonalds to get some food. I didn't finish it.

It's so easy, in the aftermath of a trip, to focus on the good things. This is, in part, made easier because of the pictures. I tend not to take pictures of misery inducing events. There's no chance to take a photo of yourself getting ripped off or your frantic look when you realize that you are entirely lost. I can't take a picture of a memory just as I can't capture fear in a roll of film. So as the weeks, months, years go by my memory becomes more and more bolstered by the pictures. They become the markers of the trip: weeks of travel boiled down into frozen images of happy moments. Thinking back to past trips in this manner there is no fear. There is only confidence and joy, the handmaidens to further adventures. Fear before a trip is often ignored or corralled to a small parcel of the mind not visited on a normal day.

Barcelona moved like a blur and I didn't have time to suffer any travel induced fear. I was all business, having a limited amount of time and a large list of things to see. There was no time for fear, no time to dwell, no time to wonder. The fact that Spain offered many experiences similar to NY made it easier. It's hard to be afraid when you have the soothing voice of Shakira, heard from an airport bus radio, reminding you that her hips, unlike the Egyptian merchants, don't lie (an experience made even more transcendental hearing it in a Spanish speaking country) or you pass a Dunkin Donuts that looks strangely like the one near your house.

But the fear is there, lingering, sulking, waiting for a moment of shaken confidence for it to rear up and remind you of it's prescence. At these moments it's overpowering. There is nothing else in the world: just you and the fear in your mind. It's hard to talk yourself out of this as your mind rationalizes away your rationalizations. Reminding myself that I experienced the EXACT same thoughts a few years ago when I drove cross country is not soothing. Rather it just excites the fear within me as I note, with a trembling mind, all the ways it DOESN'T compare.

Spending time in the Barcelona airport, hours before my flight to Cairo, I was fine. There was no fear, no acknowledgement of reality. There was simply a veneer of positive thinking: I was the conquering hero, preparing to slay all my childhood dreams. Hero's don't have fear. This tide of good feelings carried me half way through the flight before I became confronted with the enormity of the situation. I was about to land in a country I had never been to before. I knew no one. No one there cared one whit about me. I spoke none of the language and I recognized none of the culture. Shit.

I am sure I strode off of the plane proud and upright, with an urgency that could easily be mistaken by an onlooker. I had to keep moving. So I found my way through the empty airport, walked through customs (having just purchased my visa) and collected my luggage. Leaving the airport I pressed forward through the crowd of taxi drivers all competeing for the same tourists and located the man holding a sign with my name on it. With a sigh of relief I thrust my hand into his and we made our way to his car. A short while later I checked into my hotel, entered my room and proceeded to decide that I was going to die.

Of course I didn't die. Soon after such pronouncement I reminded myself that tourists have been travelling to Egypt for centuries and most of them don't die. Amused by the absurd lengths that I was allowing the fearful portion of my mind to take me I finally realized how silly I was being. Moments later I fell asleep and awoke the next day feeling better. I was still terrified. The thought of walking around the streets of Cairo still caused quite a stir in my mind. But I did it anyway. Eventually it got easier as the unknown became known and I drew strength from little things like crossing the street w/o getting hit by a car or taking the same route to the train station twice.

Anything worth pursuing in life has a measure of fear attached to it. If there is a way around this than you are either cheating or not experiencing something new. I realize this is natural. THis is also incredibly healthy. For the unspoken benefit of travel, beyond (in fact even more important than) seeing the "sights", is confidence. Confidence in yourself, confidence in the world. We don't get to slay our dreams without this.

Solo travel terrifies me and I think anyone that claims for themself otherwise is mistaking that ill feeling in their gut for machismo. I hope it always does. It's part of the reason I do it and the main reason I will continue to do it. It's the price for every picture you take and every memory you relish.
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ant
Feb. 4th, 2007 @ 02:25 pm Ozymandias
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Ozymandias
by Shelley

I met a traveller from an antique land
Who said:—Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. Near them on the sand,
Half sunk, a shatter'd visage lies, whose frown
And wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamp'd on these lifeless things,
The hand that mock'd them and the heart that fed.
And on the pedestal these words appear:
"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair!"
Nothing beside remains: round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare,
The lone and level sands stretch far away.



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The remains of the statue.



I have always loved this poem, ever since I first discovered it in 11th grade English class more than a decade ago. At the time the class analysis sought a lesson from Shelley's words. The poem stood as a guard against the vanity and ego of man. Clearly, it says that man is mortal and against the backdrop of extending time, insignificant. Though we might protest and do our best to get around it eventually nature and time reclaims all that we do. Our time and power is limited, a lesson best remembered in the heat of any of our ego tantrums.

That was what was taught and it has tempered me ever since but I no longer believe in that message, having actually seen this in real life.

Ozymandias is Ramses II, arguably one of the greatest of the Egyptian Pharoahs. He commanded great power and wealth which was evidenced in his impressive monuments throughout Egypt. His goal, as mocked in the poem above, was for immortal life. It's not possible to visit Egypt and laugh at his goal because in many ways he achieved it. Here we are thousands of years ago still speaking his name. Millions of people have visited his monuments long since his demise. I gazed at his exposed mummy while in Cairo, literally staring into his face, noticing his hair and his fingernails (quite eerie actually).

It's easy for Shelley or anyone else for that matter to mock such audacious claims but I can't help but feel that the joke is on us. Somewhere, in the ether, Ramses II is laughing at all of us, his name and legacy having survived all this time. You can't say that about many other people....

more pictures from this site, the Ramesseum )
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ant
Feb. 1st, 2007 @ 01:20 pm pictures!!!
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Normally, when I have pictures to develop, I send them out to Clark and wait about a week for them to get back to me. This saves me about 2-3 dollars a roll and saves me the trouble of having to digitize them. However, with these pictures I didn't want to risk their getting lost in the mail and, more importantly, I wanted them developed right away. So today I spent the few extra dollars and had most of my pictures developed. As expected they come nowhere near matching the grandeur of the actual, real life, images of them. Perhaps I need a new camera. A few pictures that I was looking forward (such as the nursing kitten in Dahab) to seeing didn't come out. And it appears that I have lost a roll (it's my Alexandria roll). Hopefully it will be buried in my pack somewhere. My roll from Madrid is not finished yet so I doubt I will see those pictures for months. I will just upload two photos now and eventually I will post a bunch more with descriptions etc.

The first photo is for [info]alliegee

two photos from Egypt )
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ant
Jan. 31st, 2007 @ 08:19 pm Let my person go!!
Current Location: New York
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After close to 48 hours travelling/waiting, I have, finally arrived home.

I am exhausted. I think I have gotten about 3 hours of sleep during that time but I must stay up for at least 2-3 more hours so I can get back to my regular sleep cycle.

I think Moses had an easier time getting out of Egypt than I did. Oh, ok, that's not entirely true. I just seem to be stuck in this biblical reference mood. Getting out was a pain though. The bus arrived at my destination on time, which I hadn't planned on, so I had to wait at the airport for about 8 hours. Of course I got ripped off by the taxi from the bus station 7 minutes from the airport (35LE about 6 USD). THe best part about arriving early is that I wasn't actually allowed into the airport proper. I had to sit in this gigantic waiting area that had mosquitoes in it. grrr... The flight left late but it didn't really matter. oddly enough the people sitting in front of me where the people I sat next to on my flight TO egypt!!!

My hatred of the Madrid airport has grown exponentially. The place is just too damn big. It took me 40 minutes to walk from where my plane landed to the Metro stop. Such a pain in the ass... you are required to take a series of buses, trains and motorized walkways (they even have motorized RAMPS[which isn't entirely bad -- I love walking on those things if they are empty]).

On the otherhand, my love of Spain has grown even more. I really liked that country and I will have to go back. I was pleased to find out that massive amount of beautiful women is not contained in Barcelona -- I found the same collection of aesthically pleasing females in Madrid! Two such females, working in the airport, got me to buy them some duty free cigarettes because they weren't allowed to purchase them (as they weren't flying anywhere). I had concerns about this but I couldn't refuse them! ;) I bought some wine for myself.

I spent the day in the Prado and walking around a gigantic park.

The flight home from Madrid was fantastic as it was empty. I had 4 seats to myself and thus spent the entire flight in a horizontal position. Perfect. I cleared customs with no problem after having to explain where I visited. The officer seemed to be impressed and waved me through with no problems. Not so with the young guy in front of me who admitted to visiting Holland -- he got the full search. Gee, I wonder why...

So now I am back. And tired. And hungry. Time to catch up on some of my missed TV shows and catch up on some missed sleep.
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ant
Jan. 29th, 2007 @ 08:53 pm goodbye...
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I think, in her own way, Egypt is trying to say goodbye. At around 2 am this morning I was awoken by a howling, screeching, wind that was clattering at my door and vibrating my windows. After latching the window and shoving some paper into a loose crack on the door I went back to sleep. This morning the wind had kept up and it has been gale force. The tranquil, lazy weather of yesterday has been replaced by something.. new. Even now, as I write this,I hear the sea behaving like an ocean, sending it's spray high up into the air as the chaotic waves crash against the, now, rock strewn shore. It is such a change from yesterday, such difference that I am reminded that while Egypt might seem tame now, in present day standards, there is a strong undercurrent of history and activity. Oh, I get off track. I suppose the crazy weather could simply be a message from God coaxing me to attempt to repart the Red Sea. Sometimes I get my messages confused.

Oh, who am I kidding, Egypt will say goodbye to me the same way it said hello: ripping me off on a cab ride from the bus station to the airport. Ahh the universal send off!

I am going to miss Egypt. I am going to miss some of the people I have met, the places I have seen, the craziness I have been a part of.

This evening dined at my favorite restaurant here in Dahab, as I have ever night these past 5 days and along with my normal Rosemary chicken (SOOO GOOD) I got some grilled shrimp. I have only had western, chain restaurant style shrimp so I was a bit surprised by what I got: the whole shrimp. I have never seen a whole shrimp before and was a bit surprised by its size. In fact the eyes were still in it! Needless to say, much to the chagrin of the chef, I did not eat the heads. Even if all I had to do was slurp the contents out. Some things are best left for more settled stomachs!

ok... that's about it for now. Time to go pack (I lost a critical strap on my pack thanks to EgyptAir) and shower before I begin my super long commute back to NY. See you all in a few days!
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ant
Jan. 28th, 2007 @ 08:39 pm the glory of doing nothing
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This morning I bartered and bought 1200 pages worth of books. By the time I go to bed, in 90 minutes (it's amazing how tiring doing nothing can be), I will have 800 pages left. I am hoping that that will be enough to get me home but I might buy another one just in case. This month has been the first time I have read fiction in over a year and I must say I had forgotten what a joy it can be. I am overindulging and, getting caught up in the stories, forgetting where I am. I had forgotten that power of a book. The book I am going to finish tonight is The Beach. I have seen the movie but always wanted to read the book. I think now is a perfect time for it!

In case you were wondering what I did today, I just told you. I didn't do much else. I woke up around 8:30 and walked down to get breakast at 9. I made that last almost 2 hours before I got cleaned up and went to get some books. I attempted to find the bakery, after being given vague directions from a guy at the hotel but was unsuccessful. This town is designed to funnel everyone along the main path that runs along the beach, and all of the restuarants/hotels, an attempt to find anything else is difficult as the "local" places tend to be kept separate. So I did without my beloved fresh bread.

The entire day was spent lounging about reading which was only interrupted by the occasional cat who would decide to climb up on my chest. I love how cats have the perfect ability to figure out what you are doing and then interrupt precisely that! My relationships to the cats has changed over the past few days. My initial encounters, while acknowledging their cuteness, revolved around my firm belief that they were disease infested and should be avoided and, for no reason, touched. After the first morning however, when one of them stole my eggs and proved who was boss, my resolve has slowly crumbled. They are simply too cute, with all their meowing and purring. So now I pet but make sure my hands are soon after drenched in Purinell. My only fear now, and one that won't go away, is of getting accidently clawed by one as they attempt to climb up on me.

Tomorrow is my last real day in Egypt, as Tuesday is a travel day, and I think I am going to spend it doing absolutely nothing. I might go for a swim (it's been a quite pleasant 85 degrees lately). I will certainly do some reading. I will also have to stop at the "supermarket" and stock up on provisions for my trek back to Cairo and America. It seems to strange that it is all coming to an end. A very large part of me wants to keep going, keep traveling, keep discovering.
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ant
Jan. 27th, 2007 @ 09:14 pm doing some math
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Doing some math last night, and consulting my detailed day-by-day expense records, it is looking like I am going to come in about 500-800 dollars UNDER budget for my trip! That's not entirely a good thing because I think I might have been holding back unneccesarily. I also determined that I have only used SIX rolls of film. That's a travesty. But really.. I don't know what more I could have taken pictures of -- there is only so much stuff to see and I just know that the bulk of it will never be looked at again after 6 months of it being developed -- all the most important pictures are in my head!
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ant
Jan. 27th, 2007 @ 08:42 pm and so it begins to wind down...
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I have decided to stay, for my remaining two days, in Dahab. Rather, the decision was made for me as I languished in bed until around 9:30 this morning. This whole relaxing thing is getting a bit easier. I did attempt to find the bus station this morning, in fact I walked around for about 3 hours, but the place marked on the map that I had was simply a large, empty, dirt field. No sign of a "new" bus station anywhere. Perhaps I was in the wrong spot, perhaps the book was wrong regardless there was no bus station that I could see. Eventually I was passed by a bus and I followed it a bit but I couldn't determine where it was going and the place it turned out of view was pretty far and it was pretty hot. I gave up the chase and decided to just have the hotel make the arrangements for me.

Tuesday is going to be an awful day. I leave here at 8:30 am for a bus trip that is supposed to be 9 hours to cairo but I am hoping it takes about 10-12 as I will have nothing else to do for the rest of the night beside sit in the airport until 1:30AM, when my flight departs. I land in Madrid at around 6:30am and try to make it to the Prado by the time it opens. My flight home departs at aroun 7pm. Basically I won't be in a proper bed for over 36 hours. blah.

I finished my last book a little while ago and so tomorrow my only goal is to get 1 or 2 more new books. I have scouted out a few bookstores in town that appear to have english language books. I am hoping they will accept a trade of the two books I currently own.

The cats here are increasingly aggressive. This evening at dinner I was sitting at my table eating when a deliciously cute kitten hopped over to me, meowing as she came. Eventually she ended up on my lap and kept trying for my food, but she was too tiny to reach over the table. However, her meowing attracted the attention of another, larger cat, who was much more resolved in her desire to share dinner with me. Eventually the kitten and the larger cat were both on the table, approaching my plate from different angles, and as I attempted to fend them off (while trying to avoid a scratch or a bite from these dirty animals), the larger one ran off with one of my chicken kebababs. The entire thing -- skewer and all. I could only watch helplessly as the two cats chowed down on it, on the floor. Thankfully the manager got me a new kebab. And a spray bottle of water, for the cats!

Tomorrow will be another lazy day although Monday I might go out to St Katherines Monastery and Mt Sinai however the "tour" that my hotel, and most of the others here offer, run from 8am to 8pm and I am not entirely sure that I want to spend 12 hours there. I need to get some more details. Thankfully I have tons of time for that tomorrow!

The end of my much anticipated trip is now in sight and I have mixed feelings. I am looking forward to going home but not for some of the things I had been avoiding prior to the trip. It has been a good trip and I have learned all sorts of wonderful things -- most importantly, about myself....
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ant
Jan. 26th, 2007 @ 08:32 pm Stuck inside of Dahab with the Nile blues again
Current Location: Dahab, Egypt
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I am torn between two equally unappealing possibilities. I can spend my extra two days in Dahab, where I am not having the best of times, or I could go back to battle the chaos of Cairo. There are pros/cons to each decision. Staying in Dahab is the easiest solution but I am out of things to do here (and almost out of books -- I am on to my third, one picked up in Luxor, and will finish it within the next 2 days) and don't know if I will enjoy doing nothing. Plus this hippy enclave is making me a bit uneasy. If I go back to Cairo I will have some things to do but I have to deal with all of the Cairo hassles. And I don't know if I am ready for that again. I will have to decide tomorrow afternoon.

In hindsight I should have ate the cost of the plane ticket I had to Dahab and stayed in the nile valley, never coming to Sinai at all. My main reason for coming to Dahab was because it was a good transit point into Jordan but since I am not going there the reasons for my being here are less and less. I could have went down to Aswan for a few days and saw some more ancient Egyptian stuff. I could have also had spent at least another day in Luxor -- I was really having a good time there (mainly because I was hanging out with this Canadian, Alan, in the evenings and we got along very well).

It's weird being here. I don't feel like I am in Egypt anymore. No one hassles me as I walk by the stores and if they do it's all good natured and ends with a sincere "have a good day". It is pretty laid back here and the water is nice. My hotel is one of the nicest I have stayed at in Egypt (also the most expensive) although the shower sucks (which is something I desperately wanted tonight). But it still makes me a little bit uneasy. The town is also pretty empty -- there is a crazy amount of excess capacity and I really don't see many people. I am finding there is Egyptian time (already late) and Dahab time (much later). For instance this morning I went snorkelling and was supposed to leave at 11. I was ready to go at exactly 11 but we didn't get going until around 11:30. Coming back I was supposed to be picked up at 4 but wasn't until around 4:40. This irks me. Perhaps there is too much NYer in me suffer a laidback place?

It's also weird to realize that a year ago this town was bombed and people died. I don't think I have ever been to a place that has been bombed recently.

Dahab appears to be overrun by cats. Which is fine because I love cats. Every hotel and restaurant along the coast seems to have at least 3-10 resident cats. Judging by the large population and the larger sacks on some of these cats no one here seems to follow the encouraging suggestions of Bob Barker about controlling the pet population. This morning while eating a breakfast engulfed by flies on a table looking out on the sea one of the cute local cats spent about 5 minutes warming up to me and then, when I was disracted for a second, she ran off with my eggs! I had two fried eggs and she pulled them right off my plate! Too be fair, I wasn't planning on eating them anyway but I can assure you, after seeing a cat run off with them I was thinking twice! At dinner tonight a cat sat on the floor and stared at me for the entire meal hoping for some food. Eventually she brought her kitten over and let it nurse, hoping to appeal to my emotional side "if you don't feed me then my little kitten will go without nutrients". I didn't feed them. But I took a picture.

As mentioned, I did go snorkeling today and it was fun although a bit too cold. I couldn't stay in the water for more than 30-40 minutes and that was pushing it. I did see a lot of fascniating and bizarre looking fish. I saw, what I think to be, a school of eels. And, I also came face to face with the dreaded Lion Fish, which apparently has enough poison to kill a man in 30 seconds. Thankfully it's a docile fish so I spent about 5 minutes staring at it from a distance of about 3 feet. A quick change in the current or the mood of the fish could have spelled the end for this intrepid LJer.

I discovered a good restaurant here which has the most amazing tea ever. Apparently it's a regular tea with sage in it. I have never tasted tea so good before!! mmm......

ok.. not sure where I will be writing from next....
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ant
Jan. 24th, 2007 @ 04:54 pm Egyptian wine
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Last night at dinner I had Obelisk, the big Egyptian Wine label. I had a "red" and it was god awful swill. It tasted like grape juice. However, by the end of the awful meal the wine actually tasted delicious! I tried pigeon again, this time grilled, and it was terrible. There is simply not enough meat on a pigeon to satisfy an American carnivore.
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ant
Jan. 24th, 2007 @ 04:38 pm an honest baker
Current Location: luxor
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a note to myself for future reference: When a cute, intelligent, Korean girl who spent much of the day walking in your close proximity, avoiding her gaggle of friends and then when friends leave to go some place else but she decides to stay behind, asks you if you know where to get some good regular coffee, she might not be simply asking you a question! DOH! lol.. sometimes I am not to quick on the uptake, but to be fair I was tired.

I spent the first portion of today exploring tombs in the Valley of the Kings and Queens. I don't have much to say about them because eventually they all blend together. But they were quite brilliant and it boggles the mind to try to think of all of this the way it was. I can't even imagine what this area must have looked like when everything was still being used.

Today I experienced and Egyptian first. I found an honest baker. Yesterday I bought a loaf of sweet bread and was charged 1.5LE and a regular loaf for 1le. Today I bought 2 sweet breads and 3 regular loafs and simply handed the man 6LE. He counted it and then gave me a dollar back! Can you imagine that? An egyptian merchant preventing me from overpaying! Fantastic -- how can I leave now? I have become a "regular" at the bakery. And, god, that sweet bread is delicious!

I went with a tour group, it was me, 2 italians and a bunch of young Koreans. We were a merry bunch. Sadly today is my last day in Luxor, as early tomorrow morning I fly over to Sharm El Sheikh, but immediately transfer to Dahab. I have 3-5 days there and there are really no major "tourist" sites. I am going to sit on my ass and vegetate for a few days. It will be brilliant! I am planning on going scuba diving for the first time and I'll also do some snorkelling. But then, sadly, the trip will come to an end.



Reading back over some of my earlier posts I am amazed at the change I have undergone. THings sounded pretty grim at first and indeed, to me, they felt grim. But I have adjusted now, I have gotten used to the culture, I have gotten the flow. Cairo is such a hard city to get your feet wet in -- Luxor is much easier to manage. Plus I have met a lot of great people at the hotel here and it makes whiling away the hours all the more enjoyable.

I woke up this morning feeling much better. I still have a lingering cough but my overall health is much improved. I am thankful for my great immune system -- GOOD JOB Immune System! Keep up the solid effort!
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ant
Jan. 23rd, 2007 @ 04:04 pm a promise, fulfilled
Current Location: luxor
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About 12 years ago I sat in Brother D's 9th period english class studying the "Romantic" poets. I have a distinct memory of reading the poem by Shelley entitled "Ozymandias" and looking at an accompanying picture on the same page, it was a drawing but I was captivated. Just the name alone was enough to stir the yearnings for the exotic in my 16 year old mind. I read it and I wondered.

Today I sat underneath the fallen monument discussed and depicted in that class, drinking water. My 16 year old self and my (soon to be) 28 year old self had a meeting 3000 miles from home and we both agreed that this was a good moment. A happy moment. A realized moment, making good on the promise of youth.
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Things have been good here in Luxor. I am still sick and have been coughing and blowing up more snot than I have in the past year. But it's now Egyptian snot -- better than the dismal American snot. My head still feels a little woozey but I have not let that stop me. I spent alomst 4 hours wandering around the Karnak temple yesterday in a state of sheer bliss. THe temple is enormous, you simply can't contemplate the size of it (or anything here, for that matter). I spent a good 30 minutes just sitting in the great "hall", filled with over a hundred massive columns gazing at the markings on them. I copied down one large line of heiroglyphics.

Yesterday I was able to purchase a toothbrush and a package of Halls cough drops. I had expected to be gouged for this and steeled myself to pay up to 50LE (about 8 American dollars) for these items. I was shocked and surprised when the bill came to... 12 LE, which is less than 2 dollars. I hurried home and furiously brushed my teeth -- they have never looked so good! I felt like smiling and waiting for that "glint", that so often accompanies commercials for tooth paste.

I also ate at McDonalds yesterday. I got better service there than I ever did in an American MCD and I paid a lot less as well. Long live the golden arches! ;)

Today I rented a bicycle and pedaled myself all around the west bank visiting a few sites. Tomorrow is my last day and I don't know what I will do. I haven't seen the "Valley of the Kings" and I don't think I will. It's a pain to get there, costs a bit and, quite frankly, I am a bit tombed out. I have settled into this pattern of only doing sightseeing before noon and then spending the rest of the day lounging about on the roof drinking tea. Today I discovered the wonder of "sweet bread" -- I think I bit into heaven!

All in all, things are going good. I am getting less hassles in the street now that I have been here a few days. I am feeling more comfortable and enjoying myself. Life is good.
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Jan. 21st, 2007 @ 07:50 pm and on the 7th day, he rested
Current Location: Luxor (egypt, not Vegas)
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I woke up yesterday morning with a nagging itch in my throat (no doubt thanks to much puffing at the water pipe) and a general sense of the blahs. In short, I was spent; exhausted; tired, physically and mentally. It's so easy to sit at your desk, glancing through a guidebook and underestimate things: time, costs, effort and I am starting to fall vicitim to my overzealous scheduling. I don't find it ironic that I "forgot" my spreadsheet based day-by-day itinerary at home. Today I really didn't do anything. My train got me into Luxor at around 6:30 and I hung out on their roof until around 8:30 when my room was ready. Then I laid in the room, feeling quite cold under my blankets. Eventually I got up, went for a walk looking for a few necesities and got tea. Then it was dinner. And that was my day. It was my scheduled "free" day. The schedule bit is being dropped.

My plans for the next week have changed as the realities of situation begin to weigh on me. I will not be able to make it Petra. I don't think I have the right Egyptian visa for it plus logistically I just don't see it happening. This now grants me an extra 2 days that will be spent, most likely, in Dahab, doing absolutely nothing. Even my plans for Luxor have changed a bit as it is more difficult to get around than I had thought.

I am a bit ill right now. I am on the cusp of a full blown case of the sickies. It can go either way right now. I am hoping that the nyquil I will be taking in an hour will help along with some rest and taking it easy. I have done a lot of walking this week!

I now understand fully why there are so many tours here that people decide to take instead of doing it yourself -- there are just too many hassles. It has gotten to the point where I try to avoid going out because I know walking the street will subject me to tons of people asking me to buy stuff or stop me on the street. At first I tried to be polite but now I have become downright rude. Just let me be!! Even going to visit the sites you are subjected to the same hassles. Thankfully I am told that there are none of these problems in Dahab, where I will be in 4 days. phew!

I never did get my toothbrush back nor my missing bottles of water. After giving the hotel the chance to rectify the situation (very easy -- just go out and by me a new one and give me a free bottle of water) and them not taking it I am now, still, without a toothbrush. It's starting to get on my nerves now. I have to find a pharmacy, which is where you can buy them, as well as cough drops. Today I found about 15 but they were all closed. I also found 3 ATMs, none of which were working. Hopefully I will have better luck tomorrow or else by Tuesday I will be in dire straits financially (and dentally).

This post is really all over the place. It also is turning into a woe is me post as well! It's not all that bad:
Yesterday I spent the day at the Egyptian Museum (the guide book suggested 2 days, I found that I was done after about 5 hours but had to kill the rest of the day there -- BORING) which had a lot interesting exhibits although eventually they all begin to bleed into each other and you are left with the feeling of "yeah yeah, it's another old thing.. yawn". My three favorite places to visit there were the Tutankahmen area, where I got to see his death mask and many other of the things he was buried with. They also had a special area devoted to the mummies of the great kings which was amazing. It cost 100le more to enter these two rooms but it was so worth it. I got to look into the face of Ramses the 2. Not a replica, not a scale model but the actual, once alive, body of one of the most famous Pharaohs. Finally, they had a room devoted to fayoum style paintings which were essentially painted (using wax and color) death masks that were placed on a mummy. THey are startingly life like.

After the museum I took a sleeper train down to Luxor. Getting to the station was fun as it was one I hadn't gone to before and it required that I use the metro. Funny thing about the metro which I didn't realise: you need to keep your ticket. When you first enter you put it in the machine and it spits it back out as you walk through. Ever mindful of souveniurs, I kept mine. When it came time to leave the metro I discoverd that you need it to get through the turnstyles again! THankfully I had mine.

The sleeper train came about an hour late but when it finally arrived, and I got on, it was nice. I like sleeping in trains.

Internet here at the hotel is pretty cheap, so I think I will be online once a day. Today was shower/clean underwear day and the hot water gave out on me just as I had worked up a good lather of shampoo in my hair! sheesh!
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Jan. 19th, 2007 @ 11:24 pm Kinda like a celebrity
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odd: I awoke this morning, had my breakfast, drank my tea and then went to my sink to brush my teeth. I first noticed my emtpy bottle of water that I had been using for water was missing. OK. I had more. But then, in a more alarming discovery I noticed that my toothbrush was missing! The maid either stole or threw away my toothbrush! Who does such a thing? I can't imagine it being thrown out (true, it was kinda crummy looking) but can't think of why it would be stolen considering that I had many more things, in plain sight, that were much more valuable. TOnight when I returned I found out that my two half filled 1 1/2 ltr bottles of water where thrown out as well! I complained about this as well. Hopefully some resolution would be had. It's such a silly, in signficant thing. I am more made about the toothbrush -- I don't know how/where to buy a new one.

Today I took the train up to Alexandria and was able to meet up with Rhiis & Sara, who together make up [info]el_mutagewwil, and live in Alex. It was a wonderful day spent wandering around the city seeing many sites and enjoying the day. It was also nice to actuallybe able to talk to people w/o having to worry about being sold something. Refreshing also!

WHile on a tram with them we were surrounded by a mob of, fairly attractive, group of about 10 females in their early twenties. They proceeded to stare and giggle at us for 10 minutes. It was a bit awkward but I felt like a celebrity! ;)

Tomorrow, I am off to the Egyptian Museum and then tomorrow night I take a train down to Luxor.

Goodbye Cairo -- just as I am beginning to discover the mysteries of your streets and traffic, we leave. le sigh.
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Jan. 18th, 2007 @ 10:02 pm cleanup day
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Today was clean up day. I got fresh undergarments and took a shower. here's the thing though... the shower is part of the bathroom. No no I mean actually part of the bathroom. There is no basin or curtain or defined shower space. I had to ask if it was OK to use it. It felt odd yet strangely liberating at the same time.
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Jan. 18th, 2007 @ 09:56 pm the prettiest girls
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I discovered that the archetype for all that I find attractive in a woman comes from Spain. I don't know how this happened but I seriously fell in love with a new girl on every corner in Barcelona. So pretty, pretty, pretty. Dark hair, usually long, medium height, dark eyes and gorgeaous eyes. Those are the rule in Barcelona not the exception (unlike the US...).

I need to get me a barcelonian wife! :)
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Jan. 18th, 2007 @ 09:54 pm By golly, that's a mighty big rock formation!
Current Location: cairo
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This morning as the car approached the pyramids at Dahshur I literally had a tear in my eye. It was one of the most awe inspiring and amazing things I have ever had the chance to observe. It's massive and it's just sitting there, as it has been for centuries, in the middle of the desert. Such myster such wonder. To top it off Once a bus of Japanese tourists left I had the entire site to myself. No one else, besides my driver and a guard, were there. I wandered freely, walking around the pyramid entirely and stopping constantly to look up, up, up. Fantastic. I also got to climb inside it's narrow passages. With the Japanese.

The day went downhill after that as I made my way to more touristy pyramids (Dahshur isn't commonly visited) which were filled with more people and more Egyptians selling crap. It got so bad at Giza that I just wanted to leave it. I couldn't find a moments peace and was constnatly on guard against a camel and it's rider coming by wanting to chat. But not just chat, eventually sell something and they don't take No for an answer. So frustarating -- once is ok, every 5 minutes is too much!!!

I will write more on that when I return.

Cairo is insane. And depending upon the time of day I would either tell you I like it or I hate it or I am scared of it. I have gotten lost many times and antagonized by some "friendly" locals which makes it very hard to get around for fear of being harrased and then having to "insult" the person to get them to go away. I do like the getting lost bit though. Sometimes the only way to find your way is to get a little lost. Or in my case a lot lost -- but it makes it all the more exciting and it makes your destination all the more greater, knowing that YOU got yourself there.

The traffic here and walking around it is difficult. Imagine a 4 lane road. Now imagine it filled with cars but with no lanes, no lights and no signs. Get a good idea of what that is in your head and now imagine trying to cross it. I am getting better at it now but have found that it's best to use locals as shields. However I did, on my first day, get hit by a car. Thankfully it was more of a tap than hit. There wasn't even a bruise or a scar, pity. I like to think of it as an Egyptian love tap. There is a lot of love here.

Aside from the things I have seen and done I am still unsure of the trip. It's a bit scary and daunting doing all of this by yourself but I am getting by. I think the next big trip I take will be with a companion.

So far my GI concerns have been unfounded although as I type I am holding something fierce in. Time will tell what becomes of it :). I did get to eat Pigeon on my first night here. The idea of it was better than the actual eating of it -- too gamey and it required a lot of cutting work for small reward. I must say that hte bread here is utterly fantastic. And the tea. They have delicious mint tea, with real mint leaves floating around in it and it is so tasty.

I have lots more stories to tell, I have a notebook quickly filling up with observations and ideas.

But that will come later.

and, oh yeah, I George Washington appeared to me on a subway wall in Barcelona.
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Jan. 15th, 2007 @ 01:18 pm EGYPT HERE I COME!
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Herodotus.
Alexander.
Napoleon.
Mark Twain.
Michael C***********.

I have taken the liberty of, prematurely, adding my name to the list of some of the greats who have visited Egypt over the centuries (!?!). In less than an hour I leave for the airport. It's finally time!! I am now both insanely excited and nervous -- my stomach is all out of sorts! This will pass, though.

Bon Voyage internet, I promise I'll write (every so often)!
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Jan. 14th, 2007 @ 06:30 pm My final packing list
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This is mainly for my own reference so I can keep track of what I brought compared to what I actually used while in Egypt. I tend to overpack although I really am trying to keep it at a manageable level. I hate having to carry crap around.


packing list for Egypt 2007 )
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Jan. 10th, 2007 @ 12:45 pm i like to make lists
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As the departure day approaches I am making lists, adding things, rethinking things and occasionally crossing things out. Today I went to the bank to verify that my ATM card works and to withdraw enough USD for my first few days. The card works although I discovered that it might only be accepted in a few banks in Cairo and none of the other places I will be going. This is not a major problem as I have found out now. I just hate carrying lots of cash with me. In hindsight I should have signed up for a Visa checkcard -- I have one but it expired over the summer and I never bothered to get a new one. Well, I might have been sent one but I probably threw it out or lost it as I have never once used it (nor the ATM card). In a jam I could get cash advances from my credit cards but I would like to avoid those silly fees.

After the bank I ventured to a Walgreens to pick up some pharmacy related items but I didn't get everything I needed as they didn't have travel size items PLUS they didn't have a good selection of rehydration products, in case of diarrhea. It looks like I will be making a trip out to Target.

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I am thinking now of adding a day trip to Alexandria from Cairo. It will be a fairly inexpensive train trip and takes about 2 hours each way. The highlight is that I will get to see some of the "countryside" along the way. Plus I like travelling via train. There are a few things I would like to see at Alex. mainly the site of the Great Lighthouse. Nothing really remains of it anymore but I can at least say that I walked on the area where it once was. I am undecided now about it so I will wait until I am in Cairo and if I hate Cairo I have this opportunity. As it is right now I have an "extra" day in Cairo provided I am able to see all of the Pyramid complexes that I want to in one day -- this wil be accomplished by renting a taxi for the day.
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Jan. 7th, 2007 @ 05:52 pm my biggest concern
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A week from tomorrow I will be on a plane destined for Egypt. How the hell did THAT happen?

As the time for departure, and the trading of theoretical for practical, approaches I find myself making lists of things to do, things to verify, things to confirm, things to buy. My list continues to grow yet I haven't made much concrete progress on checking the things off. At this point I am more curious than nervous. This will be my most ambitious trip yet and I am curious to see how it works out. I am curious to see how badly I get ripped off by the taxis. I am curious to find out if I make it back to Cairo on time for my return flight. I am curious to see if I enjoy myself and if the expectations in my head match the reality. I have a very active and analytical mind and what often happens is that I think about something so much, and in so much detail, that when it comes time to actually do it I am already bored (it's one of the reasons why I don't date: by the end of the second date I have already moved ahead 5 years to when we are married with kids and are considering divorce. who wants to deal with that? :) )

I have been thinking a lot more lately about practical things. Most of the proceeding months have been about the big picture items: sketching out an itinerary, figuring out where I will stay and how I will get there. Now, as departure becomes iminent, I am focusing on such necessities like what will I eat? How will I get money? what should I pack? My list of concerns have gone from the sensational terrorist attack to the more realistic bout of diarrhea. Seriously, diarrhea is my biggest concern at this point second only to getting hit by a car in Cairo (the traffic and driving is supposed to be horrific for foreigners). One of the things on my list now is rehydration salts and some pepto. The last thing I want to do is find myself on a crowded bus en route to the great pyramids and find that I have to take a great shit. ugh. Hopefully I will be OK -- when I was in Mongolia I never had diarrhea (only awful constipation) so I just need to make sure I avoid the tap water.
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Jan. 4th, 2007 @ 11:07 am the fairly finalized itinerary
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A few days ago I confirmed my reservations at the last two cities I will be travelling to which means that my trip is pretty much finalized at this point. Of course this by no way means I am ready to go. I still have lots of prep work to do such as packing, purchasing some supplies and fine tuning what I will do when I am in Spain. My grand plan of becoming tourist fluent in Arabic that I hatched about 3 months ago is a complete and utter failure as I have done nothing to learn the language aside from buying a language kit and realizing that I have no idea what in the world is being said. I have since lowered my expectations and hope to be able to speak basic greetings and read/speak numbers.

I leave in 11 days!

Behold the itinerary )
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Dec. 25th, 2006 @ 12:40 pm the planning continues (lodging confirmed)
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This morning I finalized more of my lodging choices for when I am in Egypt. I will be spending 4 days in Luxor and I will be staying at the Nefertiti Hotel which I have read many good things about from a variety of sources. I am looking forward to staying here. It should be... fun. ;) And they are very close to the Luxor Temple, a place I will be spending at least a day at!

I also managed to make a reservation, albeit for the wrong night (hope this can be changed) on the Abela Sleeping Train which will transport me overnight from Cairo to Luxor. I actually like sleeping on a train so this should be nice, although it will be too dark to see much of the scenary along the way. This leg of the journey costs 80 USD which is one of the most expensive intra Egypt transportation options I will be using.

Finally, I have just about settled on, although not confirmed my reservation, for the Bedouin Lodge in Dahab. I will be spending 3 days in this seaside village doing a bit of lounging. I definitely hope to do some snorkeling along the coral reef and maybe even learn how to kiteboard. One very early morning will be spent hiking up Mt Sinai, receiving the ten commandments, and then checking out St Catherine's monastery that holds the "burning bush" albeit no longer burning.

What all of this means is that I have now established lodging and transportation for the bulk of my trip. All that remains is figuring out the Petra/Jordan portion of the trip.

The itinerary now stands at: )
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Dec. 23rd, 2006 @ 11:26 am terrorism in Egypt
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Everything I have read about Egypt has made mention of the intense security throughout the country. They recognize the value of tourism for the country and go to lengthy ends to maintain this security. of course this exists for a reason as the country has been victim of terrorist attacks over the years. I had assumed that these occured many years ago but I just discovered that in April of THIS year three bombs were exploded in Dahab, a city I am planning on spending 3 nights in. Gulp. Of course this has led to investigations of the previous terrorist actions on Wikipedia which is where I came across a link with an ominous title "the Luxor massacre". In 1999 armed terrorists, with automatic weapons, stormed one of the most popular tourist sites in Luxor intent on murder and disembowlment. They killed 58 people, hijacked a bus and were later killed in a gunbattle with the tourist police.

That being said none of this is affecting my trip as these tend to be isolated incidents and part of me is hoping for an attack today or tomorrow to drive down the room rates etc while I am in Egypt. Oh, ok, that's not entirely true. Still, though, it is slightly unsettling and it is a wakeup call that of all the places in the world to travel to this is not the safest. Although, really, these days, where is that place? (BHUTAN!!!)
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